Varde Guides
South AmericaMachu Picchu, Peru

Machu Picchu, the long way

The citadel, the Sacred Valley, and Cusco, taken slowly and in order.

Varde8 min read18 places
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Why we went

Machu Picchu is best earned over a few days. This is Cusco and the Sacred Valley first, to settle into the altitude and the history, then the early bus up to the citadel itself, with the famous climbs for whoever wants them.

Machu Picchu is the headline, but the days around it are the trip.

You come in through Cusco and the Sacred Valley, climbing slowly toward the citadel through old towns, terraced hillsides, and markets that have run for centuries. Give the altitude a day or two before you ask anything of your legs.

Bring people who will get up for a sunrise once and forgive you for it. The first bus up, in the dark, is the part you will keep.

Section 02

Where to eat

Long Cusco dinners and a calm last meal in the town below the citadel.

Cicciolina
01Eat
Cusco, San Blas

Cicciolina

Best for A standout Cusco dinner

A long-running favorite above the San Blas streets, mixing Andean ingredients with a Mediterranean hand. Book a table for dinner, or grab a stool at the tapas bar up front and graze with a pisco sour.

C. Palacio 110, Cusco 08002, Peru
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Chicha por Gaston Acurio
02Eat
Cusco, Centro

Chicha por Gaston Acurio

Best for Refined regional cooking

Gaston Acurio's room on the Plaza Regocijo, putting a polished spin on Cusco cooking with alpaca, cuy, and river trout. A safe bet for a special meal, with a view over the square if you ask.

Santa Catalina 210, Arequipa, Peru
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Morena Peruvian Kitchen
03Eat
Cusco, Centro

Morena Peruvian Kitchen

Best for An easy group lunch

A bright, casual spot a block off the Plaza de Armas doing generous Peruvian plates and good ceviche. Easy for a group that cannot agree, and welcome after a long day in the ruins.

Plaza de Armas, Portal Harinas 181, Cusco 08001, Peru
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PACHAPAPA cocina cusqueña y más
04Eat
Cusco, San Blas

PACHAPAPA cocina cusqueña y más

Best for Andean comfort food

A courtyard restaurant in San Blas built for a long, slow dinner of Andean classics cooked in clay ovens. Order the stuffed peppers or the oven-roasted lamb and let the evening stretch out.

Plazoleta San Blas 120, Peru
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Restaurant Bistro Bar Indio Feliz
05Eat
Aguas Calientes

Restaurant Bistro Bar Indio Feliz

Best for Dinner before the climb

The reliable kitchen in the town below Machu Picchu, a French-Peruvian spot that has fed hikers for years. Book ahead for the night before your early entry and order the trout or the set menu.

Pje. Lloque Yupanqui 103, Aguas Calientes 08681, Peru
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Tree House Restaurant
06Eat
Aguas Calientes

Tree House Restaurant

Best for A quiet last dinner

A cozy, low-key room in Aguas Calientes with a short, careful menu and a quiet mood. A good calm dinner the night you arrive, before the very early start up to the citadel.

Jr. Huanacaure 105, Aguas Calientes 08681, Peru
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Section 03

What to see

The citadel and the climbs, plus the Inca stonework around Cusco.

Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu
07See & do
Historic Sanctuary

Historic Sanctuary of Machu Picchu

Best for The reason you came

The Inca citadel on its ridge in the cloud forest, and it earns every superlative. Buy a timed ticket far in advance, take the first bus up from Aguas Calientes in the dark, and hire a guide at the gate for the first hour.

08680, Peru
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Huayna Picchu
08See & do
Historic Sanctuary

Huayna Picchu

Best for The big climb

The steep peak behind the classic view, with stairs cut into the rock and a small, timed quota of climbers. Add it to your ticket months ahead if your knees are willing. The view straight down is the reward.

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Sun Gate
09See & do
Historic Sanctuary

Sun Gate

Best for The arrival view

The pass where the Inca Trail arrives and the citadel first comes into view. Even without the trail, the walk up from the ruins is gradual and gives you the postcard angle with far fewer people.

Peru, RFJ8+39F, Urubamba 08680, Peru
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Ollantaytambo
10See & do
Sacred Valley

Ollantaytambo

Best for Sacred Valley ruins

A living Inca town in the Sacred Valley with a steep terraced fortress above it and the train to Machu Picchu leaving from below. Climb the terraces late in the day, then stay the night to break up the trip.

Ollantaytambo, Peru
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Saqsaywaman
11See & do
Above Cusco

Saqsaywaman

Best for Monumental Inca stonework

The vast stone fortress above Cusco, its walls built from boulders fitted so tightly a blade will not slip between them. A short ride or a stiff walk up from the plaza, best in late afternoon light.

Cusco 08002, Peru
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Qorikancha
12See & do
Cusco, Centro

Qorikancha

Best for Inca and colonial layered

The Inca Temple of the Sun, once sheathed in gold, with a Spanish convent built directly on top. The clash of the two is the whole story of Cusco in one building, and the curved Inca wall is flawless.

Santo Domingo s/n, Cusco 08002, Peru
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Section 04

Where to wander

The Sacred Valley by day and the old quarter of Cusco on foot.

Salt Mine of Maras
13Drive
Sacred Valley

Salt Mine of Maras

Best for A striking morning stop

Thousands of salt pans stepping down a hillside, worked by the same families for generations and fed by a salty spring. Go in the morning light, walk the paths between the pools, and buy a bag of the pink salt on the way out.

MRWW+G8W, Urubamba 08655, Peru
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Zona Arqueologica Moray
14Drive
Sacred Valley

Zona Arqueologica Moray

Best for Inca engineering

Concentric Inca terraces sunk into the earth like an amphitheater, thought to have been a farming laboratory. An easy add-on to the salt pans, and the scale only really lands once you are standing at the rim.

Vía a Moray, Maras 08655, Peru
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Mercado de artesanías
15See & do
Sacred Valley

Mercado de artesanías

Best for Market and ruins

The Sacred Valley's best-known market, busiest and best on Sunday, with textiles, produce, and the ruins on the hill above. Come early, haggle gently, then climb to the terraces before the heat.

Vigil 247, Písac 08106, Peru
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Plazoleta de San Blas
16See & do
Cusco, San Blas

Plazoleta de San Blas

Best for The prettiest wander

The artists' quarter climbing the hill above the center, all white walls, blue doors, and little workshops. Wander the steep lanes in the afternoon and stop at the small plaza for a coffee and the view.

Plazoleta de San Blas, San Blas, Peru
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Section 05

Where to slow down

A first day for the altitude, and a quiet night before the climb.

Plaza de Armas
17See & do
Cusco, Centro

Plaza de Armas

Best for Easing into the altitude

The heart of Cusco, ringed by arcades and two great churches and lit up at night. Take an easy first day here to let the altitude settle, sit on a balcony with a drink, and watch the square fill and empty.

Cusco 08000, Peru
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Aguas Calientes
18Stay
Machu Picchu Pueblo

Aguas Calientes

Best for Basing for an early start

The small town in the gorge below the citadel, the launch point for the morning bus. There is not much to it, and that is fine. Arrive the day before, sleep early, and let the thermal baths take the edge off.

Aguas Calientes 08681, Peru
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